A Glimpse of Ballinlough

Written by C Ó Foghlú – 1989

Though there is quite a considerable body of information on the origins of Irish Place-names, many of these are self explanatory. Dublin or Baile Atha Cliath is the town of the ford of hurdles, Cork or Corcach Mor Mumhan is the great march of Munster and our own area of Ballinlough or earlier Ballylochy, can be easily translated as the town of the lake. But where was the lake?

I have often asked myself that question, but could never come up with a satisfactory answer, until I consulted the O.S. map of 1841. The lake was there alright, across the road from Ballinlough House (formerly Lovett’s Restaurant), to the left or east, overlooking the Douglas Estuary, roughly pear-shaped with a narrow entrance from Skehard Road, below the present roundabout. There was a large irregular shaped residence with a gate lodge slightly to the west of the lake. This house was called Lakeville and was the property of one John Shettick Haines, J.P., a merchant with offices at 45 Maylor Street. Nearby was another house “Lakeview” owned by Richard Harris, solicitor and land agent.

Still retreating in time to the National Census of 1659, we are informed that there were thirty people living in Ballinlough, two of whom were English. The principal occupant was described as William Tucker, gentleman. By 1881, the population had risen to 504. The following table is more revealing:

1841 487people in 94 houses
1851 438 people in 85 houses
1861 434 people in 81 houses
1871 469 people in 102 houses

The valuation of 1852 is that much more revealing in so far that it gives the name of the principal occupier of each holding, the description and area of each holding, annual valuation on each house and ground and the name of the landlord. In that year of 1852, the record shows that there were 111 houses in all, 21 of which were unoccupied. The principal landowner appeared to be Sir George Pigott with Francis C. Smith as his agent. Most of the holdings were small, varying from a few acres down to a quarter of an acre with a few notable exceptions – Daniel Sandyford Lane held 52 acres 2 roods 37 perches with a rateable value of £115.0.0., Charles Connell 28 acres, valuation £66., Thomas Gregg (Gregg’s Cross) had 21.2.33 at £75, the Rev Wm. H. Thompson 16.0.17 at £65, James Joyce worked a gravel pit as did Joseph Reide and Michael Hayes. Five brickyards were also in operation. The subject of the brickyards located on the Douglas side of the Estuary is treated more extensively in “A history of Douglas”

Many years ago, I remember, don’t ask me when, a man from Ballinlough saying he went to Cork three times a week. It was a remark I overheard but it stayed with me always because where I came from, people spoke of “going to town”. “Going to Cork” was to my mind, like going on a journey. In terms of distance we lived only three miles apart, but our outlook was very different. Some years later, when I used to go to soccer matches Ballinlough, I understood better what he said. In the twenties, round about 1926, Ford Motor Company had a football club aptly named Fordsons, in the premier league. Their pitch was in Ballinlough, and one entrance was there the Golden Fry take away now stands, roughly opposite the church sacristy. Ballinlough road or Boreenmanna road would be the main approach to the ground and my memory was of narrow, dark, winding roads and high walls, long stretches of road with no houses, or very few, from the beginning of the Ballinlough road to the football grounds. There was no public lighting then and in night time the roads would be pitch dark. Paraffin Oil lamps were the main source of lights in the houses. The local football pitch was the lazy acre now occupied by Castlegreina and Carrigeen Park. Mention of these two places leads me naturally to what I believed was the beginning of Ballinlough as a suburban area as distinct from a rural area.

In 1936, Bradley Bros build Carrigeen Park, the houses costing £550 each! They followed with Pic-du-Jer Park in 1938, Belmont Park in about 1941, Belmont Avenue, Sundrive Park and Somerton Park in that order. They were the main developers followed by other developers. Browningstown Park was begun around 1939. But previous to that as part of a country wide effort, the building of Haig Gardens, Bryan Terrace and Douglas Terrace in 1926 for ex soldiers and ex naval men of World War I was undertaken, under the aegis of the British Government. This period began the expansion and development of Ballinlough as a suburban area. It was convenient to the City but came under the County Council, where ground rent and rates were lower. With the passing of the City Boundary act, which successive corporations had been pressing for eighty years, the situation vis-à-vis the County Council has been completely altered. Ballinlough is now and has been for some years under the jurisdiction of Cork Corporation.

To elaborate further on building developments, I must not forget that the land under Belmont, Sundrive and Somerton was owned by the Kelly family who had a large orchard as well as the market gardens and by the Misses Maher, milk vendors. The Orchard Bar gets its name from the large orchard on which it stands and was owned by the Duggan family, closely related to the Kellys. Shewsbury and Shewsbury Downs belonged to the Currys and the Norbergs, also market gardeners.

Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays were busy days in Ballinlough as the market gardener filled their carts with fresh vegetables straight out of the ground, ready for sale in town. They also supplied plants to the seed merchants.